When the apricot buds are red until they expand, spray the insecticide of anti-stab sucking and chewing insect pests once. After 4 to 5 days, spray the self-boiled 4-5 pomedonite sulfide plus 0.3% (mass fraction, the same) of sodium pentachlorophenol. Spraying must be meticulous and thoughtful, so although there is a risk of damaging the flower buds, the effect of clearing the garden and disinfecting it is very good. Varieties are the foundation. If the varieties are chosen incorrectly, any subsequent efforts will be futile. In this regard, it is necessary to consider not only one's own professional qualities and economic conditions, but also the management positioning (whether it is a tourist picking garden, a boutique garden, or a demonstration park), and the matching of morning, middle, late ripening and specialty varieties. At the same time, it is also necessary to understand the characteristics and characteristics of each variety in detail before it can be targeted and targeted for targeted development. Currently, there are many varieties of apricots in the Chinese market, but not all varieties are suitable for cultivation in the south. Through cultivation practices over the years, the author now cultivates successfully and has mature cultivation techniques. I will give an introduction to each of the representative varieties that ripen in the morning, middle, and late. Trim the tips dry at the end of May and the beginning of June. Select 7-12 tips with a good angle, and erase the rest. When the new tip is 40 cm long, 2-4 key cultivations are selected, and pruning is carried out in a “V” shape or happy shape. The remaining new tips are topped twice. The upright tips on the back are topped repeatedly, and too many dense branches are erased. Spraying urea in early November promotes early leaf fall. Before the fruit is enlarged until the fruit is ripe, the new tip is topped several times to control the growth of the new tip and increase the fruit setting rate and the weight of the single fruit. The new tip erect on the back can be removed or twisted to prevent the “long tree on the tree” from deteriorating the internal light of the canopy. 5 In modern fruit tree cultivation, summer pruning is a normalized technical measure, and the same is true of apricot trees. Summer pruning of young trees can speed up the formation of canopies and produce early results. For varieties with moderate branching rate and weak dryness similar to Golden Sun varieties, 30 cm cuttings are left for strong new tips up to 50 cm during the growing season, and 5 to 10 cm are repeatedly topped for new tips that recur after cutting to prevent the occurrence of long branches and promote compactness of the canopy. Apricot scab disease mainly harms fruits and new tips. Young fruits develop rapidly and severely. Infected fruits mostly develop light brown round spots on the shoulder, 2-3 mm in diameter. Later lesions turn purple-brown, and the epidermis is embolized. Severe onset is often multiple small spots connected, but the deep pulp is shallow. The spots on the new tip are brown, oval, slightly raised, and often have flowing glue. Apricot scab disease mainly harms fruits and new tips. Young fruits develop rapidly and severely. Infected fruits mostly develop light brown round spots on the shoulder, 2-3 mm in diameter. Later lesions turn purple-brown, and the epidermis is embolized. Severe onset is often multiple small spots connected, but the deep pulp is shallow. The spots on the new tip are brown, oval, slightly raised, and often have flowing glue. Trim the tips dry at the end of May and the beginning of June. Select 7-12 tips with a good angle, and erase the rest. When the new tip is 40 cm long, 2-4 key cultivations are selected, and pruning is carried out in a “V” shape or happy shape. The remaining new tips are topped twice. The upright tips on the back are topped repeatedly, and too many dense branches are erased. Spraying urea in early November promotes early leaf fall. Before the fruit is enlarged until the fruit is ripe, the new tip is topped several times to control the growth of the new tip and increase the fruit setting rate and the weight of the single fruit. The new tip erect on the back can be removed or twisted to prevent the “long tree on the tree” from deteriorating the internal light of the canopy. 502